The name is derived from an ancient fortress of the XII century. In 1297 Martinus Jacobi Admannati built a “domus” and a “castrum”. Not far from here was an ancient port which linked with the canals the marshes to the Arno river, connecting in this way the Pistoia townhall to the sea. In the same area there was the ancient “hospitium” of San Donnino, of which we remember the title of the present parish church of Castelmartini.

Inside, at a single nave, a painting of the first half of the eighteenth century representing St. Joseph with Saints Anthony Abbot and Donnino is preserved on the main altar.

Medieval village of Cecina, on the side of Montalbano, it has Etruscan origins, and we can find here walls and two access doors.

1. From the center of the square

The town of Cecina is small village situated in the Montalbano hills, at little more than 130 meters above sea level. Its ancient origines are borne out by some archeological remains which have come to light a little way away near the site of the ancient chapel of Saint Lorenzo at Vaiano. Its name seems to be derived from that of a family of Etruscan origin called Kaiknas – Caecina.

2. The apse. From the center moving upwards towards the right hand side of Cecina Square we go through on foot an underpass until we meet a small medieval square. If on one side we discover one of the two ancient gates of the village on the other we can observe the rear of the Saint Niccolò Church. On the apse, external and semicircular 2 meters above the ground we can observe two stones with Greek Crosses cut in, still very visible as testimony of the period of Byzantium-Lungobard domination.

Furthermore inside the Saint Niccolò Church two stones are avidly kept, depicting stylized faces, dating back to the Lungobards. During the VI century the area of Larciano constituted a boundary line between the Byzantine troups of the West ( Greek was therefore the official language) and those of Germanic origin (Lungobard). In the last decade of the VI century it was then the Lungobard King Aghinolfo who conquered Pistoia and the surroundings hills.

3. The Walls. Observing the gate and going along the route of the small steps adjacent to the apse of S. Niccolò Church, we can note that the old town was fortified by a wall of thickness of a meter and half. This authoritarian appearance was part of the town ever since its origins, on the other hand, right in the Middle Ages Cecina at first was dependent on the already mentioned chapel of S. Lorenzo at Vaiano and afterwards a feudal possession of the Counts Guidi of Modigliana who used it as typical rural town or mansion. Purchased in 1226 by the Pistoia Townhall together with the Larciano Castle, in 1335 it was named for the first time Castel – Castrum – for its fortifications typical of that period, rich in military and political upheavals.

4. Saint Niccolò church. We are now on the meadow of S. Niccolò church, surrounded by the city walls. The structure is romanesque style, even if only the apse, built on one rock, goes back to this period; the prominent clocktower and a part of the church were subsequently restructured from the XVI to XIX centuries. The church presents only one nave and a transept only on the left side. Inside we discover, on the left wall, a splendid wooden crucifix made by an unknown sculptor in XIII century. On the other side we can find a fresco from XV century attributed to the Florentine painter, Donnino di Domenico. In the centre of the scene are represented the Archangel Raphael who is holding the hand of Giovanni Tobiolo in front of Saint Lorenzo. To the side seraphins with six wings, Saint Sigismondo and Saint Rocco, on the ceiling the sun and the moon that are crying for the dead Christ.

5. The panorama. Going out of the church we can see a unique panorama towards the west. During all the year, good weather permitting, the sunset is a splendid view. In the background the closest hill is Montevettolini, belonging to the Monsummano Townhall, where we can see clearly the white of the Medici Villa. On the subsequent hill the tower of Monsummano Alto is visible and in the distance the villages of the Lucca Province and mountains of Pisa. We can have the idea of Medieval Pistoia that was a system of a lot of fortifications, settled on different hills, communicating between each other.

6. The second world war. Going ahead alongside the olive trees that surround the meadow of the church we exit from the village. If we observe with attention the end of the external wall we can note the destructive effects of the German retreat during the second world war. We can see the big hole on the wall extending for 1.5 meters and we can imagine the horror of the Cecina people, on the morning of a day in 1944, when the Nazis, trying to stop the Allied Army, made a big explosion of dynamite. In that period Cecina was a Nazi stronghold particularly at the house n.53 in the square was the headquarters of the military command.

7. Today. Anyone that has the possibility to spent some time in this little village, perhaps can feel that the thick walls have preserved a place out of time. The spirit of the inhabitants makes life like in one single family, with a unique reality made of traditions, holidays, conversations and problems, but always alive and proud of its history.

To Visit

Larciano Castle is a proud medieval village situated on the western slopes of Montalbano,160 m. above sea level where we have a splendid view of the Valdinievole, Fucecchio Marshes and the Pisa mountains. This excellent position has stimulated people to live here ever since the Etruscan period. In the Roman times in Larciano there were a lot of roads linking the village with the Fucecchio Marsh, the Arno River and the

Itinerary through the history

We can start our itinerary with the Nord West Gate (1), one of the three main accesses to the Castle. It is important to imagine Larciano Castle as a structure in a continous evolution from XI to XIV century: the first fortification of the ancient villa was made at the end of XI century by the Conti Guidi of Modigliana, who built a large territory with Larciano, Vinci, Cerreto and other villages, which do not exist anymore.

The main purpose of the castle was not defensive, but representative of prestige and power of the Conti Guidi on the surrounding territory.

Leaving the gate behind us we go along the stone road and after a few meters in the Balzo road appears a low wall that delimits the former first wall circle (2).

Going straight along the same road we arrive at a single piece of wall destroyed, where we can observe, on our left and covered by a thick vegetation, the second gate of access(3), perhaps the most ancient, with stones of big dimension and grossly worked. At the moment of feudal crisis, the Pistoia Townhall acquired, on November 23, 1226, the castle and its district from the sons of Conte Guidoguerra of Modigliana, paying 6000 Pisa dinars. The high price was in effect favorable for the Pistoia Townhall because Larciano represented an important village on the political-military point of view inside the conflict with Lucca Townhall, but also an economic advantage (because it was rich in wood, vineyards and olive groves) and was strategic (with the possibility of using new links to the sea with Marsh Port and Canals to the Arno river). In this period was effectively stengthened and lengthened the perimeter as far as the present length of about a kilometer and the Palatium was rebuilt and the Tower raised, reaching the height of 36 meters. Larciano became thus the principle defensive castle at the south of Pistoia Townhall.

From the gate, passing along the road going downwards,we arrive at the “Old Olive Oil Factory” (4),where we can admire the ancient millstone, the symbol of olive oil processing. Carrying on up to the underpass, we turn left along Spinelli street where, a little further, we find the South Gate (5). This point reminds us of the period of conflict between the Papacy and the Empire in the struggle for the investitures. In effect the war between the Guelfa Lucca and Florence and the Ghibellina Pistoia determined the passage of the castle to Lucca in 1302. Pistoia again purchased Larciano in 1310 with the payment of 10000 golden orins. From the south Gate still in Spinelli street we go along the underpass and immediately after the steep ascent on our right we reach the top of the hill from where we can admire a fantastic panorama.

Having arrived in the Castle Square we have in front of us the Marzocco (6), sitting lion which is the symbol of Florentine domination which began in 1401, after the defeat of Pistoia in the war with Florence. As the tradition wants the lion is without head because the beheading was done by the Cecina people, who have always been rivals of the Larciano people. With the domination of Florence, Larciano became a place of Townhall. Among the mayors we remember Francesco Ferrucci, the general of the Florentine Republic, killed during the battle of Gavinana in 1530 between the Florentines and the Imperial Army who tried to restore the Medicis to power in the town. In the square we find the church dedicated to Saint Silvestro (7), as it was under his Papacy that Larciano became converted to Christianity. The Church shows a structure with a single nave, raised presbitery and rectangular apse. The organ is very special, situated under the entrance and main altar in stone. And finally we arrive to the Castle Palace (8), defended by a wall of 203 meters by 13 with two entrances: one is where we go out and which overlooks the square, the other is along the course of the wall to the East of the tower. Originally the structure was setted with a raised passage which linked the four lookout points arranged at the edges. On our left the Captain House allowed people to reach the tower across the drawbridge situated ten meters above the ground. These days it is possible to see the cistern for the storage of water and the underground where the Civic Museum was developed which contains many relics of the prehistoric period up to the present day. Climbing about 200 steps up to the Tower it will seem to you to go back in time, to the wars of the Middle Ages; reaching the top you will remain breathless, enjoying the beautiful scenery which opens out in front of you, on the clearest days to the Apuan Alps and S. Gimignano.

To Visit

Fucecchio Marshlands

The Fucecchio marshlands are the biggest in Italy, extending for about 1800 hectars, 230 of which are natural reserves instituted by the Provincial Administrations of Pistoia and Florence. Even if they were considerably reduced compared to the ancient lake marsh once they occupied a big part of the northern Valdinievole.

Nature

The Marshlands host rare and typical plants of different climates. Here the “Morso di rana” (frog-bit) and the “Felce reale” ( royal fern) survive; these are plants characteristic of warm areas and “sfagni” (special moss), more suited to cold climates of the North, and descended up to now starting from the last glaciar. The wildlife is so rich as to enable more than 200 species of birds to be observed. The marshlands have actually a fundamental role in the migrations: the herons create during reproduction the nesting colony, called heronry(“garzaia”), the most important of Central and Southern Italy.

History and Traditions

The Fucecchio Marshlands maintain the fascination of the hystorical matters connected with the great families of the Medicis and Lorena. Important testimonies of the work of man remain here in addiction to the wonder of the countrysides and nature: the canals, the system of ports, the Medici bridge of Cappiano, the complex of the farm of the “Capannone” and buildings of the industrial archeology like the tobacco driers. By tradition the activities of collection and intertwing of the marsh herbs like “sarello “ and “sara”, used to line seats and bottles of special form called “fiasco” (flask),
are still practiced by few valued artisans.

The “Le Morette” Nature Route

This is a route particularly suitable for the lovers of nature observation and bird-watching The departure point is at the “Centro Visite” of Castelmartini inside which it is possible to discover a rich documentation on the hystorical nature features and on the traditional activities (the harvest and the production of the marsh
reeds) typical of the marsh of Fucecchio.

Chiusi Wood

From Castelmartini following the road indication for the natural reserve you pass (by car or on foot, when the weather is good) by a panoramic street wich runs alongside a typical Tuscan scenary and which crosses for a long period the Chiusi Wood. The Wood represents the last significant testimony of the primordial forest which in distant times stretched along almost all of the low Valdinievole and accomodates mostly examples of oaks (turkey oak, oak and other types of trees). The Chiusi Wood and nearby small marsh of Ramone, little area, most, which conserves some of the most interesting vegetables association of the Fucecchio Marsh; you can visit only as a guided tour in the spring and summer times.

The Morette Port

The road carries on up to the Morette Port where it is a good idea to park the car before the bridge on the “Terzo” Canal. Ever since the Middle Ages there are testimonies on the use of the Marsh system as a way of internal navigation which, from the Valdinievole, enabled people to reach Pisa or Florence with several imbarcations, from the small boats to the big boats and the vessels which loaded goods. The “Le Morette Port”, one of the few in which we can find a quadrangular structure built on three sides as a demonstration of the importance not only local of the navigation, takes its name from morette which are a diving ducks (tufted ducks) and in particular from the now rare “moretta tabaccata” (aythya nyroca) which was once very frequent in the Marsh. Beyond the bridge the itinerary on foot in the catchment area of the Marsh starts; in front of us plunged, in a poplar, is “Casotto (hut) del Criachi” on which a memorial stone remembers the victims of the ferocious violence of the Nazis.

The Nature Reserve

Running along the bank of the canal northwards, it is possible to find the panel explaining the provincial nature reserve Le Morette. Inside the environmental management and repair interventions performed by the Pistoia Province have recreated favoreable conditions for the stay and nesting of numerous kinds of birds. Carrying along the bank in the shade of the poplars and willows, for some 100 meters more, you come to the “Green House (Casotto Verde)” (called Biagiotti), which has been equipped as a wildlife observatory; across shelded slits one can view open spaces of water sorrounded by the canes. In springtime opposite the observatory you can observe seven different species of herons. In autumn and winter the streches of water host, on the other hand, thousands of ducks and water birds.

Recommended period

The best period for visiting is in spring from March to the first half of June; during the summer months you should take advantage of the sunrise or sunset avoiding in this way the hottest hours. From September to January, Tuesday and Friday are preferable, benefiting from the hunter’s silence given that the Reserve is surrounded by areas in which hunting is allowed.

More to visit in Castelmartini